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T 7/22 Puma
5/12/09 This section will allow you to follow the progress of this gun through the complete build.
While
working
on and testing the Tac7/22 TDR, I found that by eliminating the
restriction
imposed by
the foot valve in
the air tube, that the action in its' current configuration produced
some
pretty decent
power. This led
me to assembling another action using some of the left over parts from
the original
Tac 7/22 TDR build.
I went with a one piece tube for the air reservoir, and striker/hammer
housing.
I used the same
trigger assembly, same spring set up, same bolt, and cocking knob
layout,
same
striker weight,
and size, and used a breech that I had originally cut for one of the
Tac
7/22 TDR's.
The breech itself
is about .195" lower than the one on the TDR, along with a different
transfer
port.
It came together really fast...
I grabbed a stock
that I had in inventory that was started for a TX200 action, but was
replaced
with a
different piece
of wood prior to shipping. I took about 1/4" off the top of the stock,
and inletted for
this action. I left
the height of the cheek piece were it was, and added a trigger blade
about
3/16"
longer than the
one on the original Tac7/22. It's a grade 2, (maybe 3) Walnut, with
rose
wood accents.
In these pictures
the barrel shroud has been completed, and most of the pieces have been
buffed
out in preparation
for anodizing. I think an r7 is louder in discharge, with the majority
of the noise
being the sound
of the striker hitting the valve stem. Funny thing, as the gun starts
getting
low on air,
and I mean real
low, the sound level actually goes up significantly.
Close up of the
breech/bolt
area. Initial testing with this action has been great. Accuracy is
right
on
par with what I
would want from a gun. Balance and ergonomics are pretty much right on
target
with my original
goal. Shot performance is pretty much right on par with, say an AA 410e
A bit more
testing
and I will know exactly how many shots to expect from a fill, and have
a better
handle on what I
think the power level really is.
One of the three
guns I have built thus far is gonna have to go to fund further builds.
If interested
in any of them,
please feel free to give us a call to talk details. 304-273-0937, after
6pm please.
5/13/09 I spent the time between work and dinner out back testing this action.
I am way pleased
with the way this one turned out. Accuracy is there, as I was able to
make
some
real tight, thread
the needle type shots on unsuspecting chipmunks. I didn't photo any of
the days
hits as they were
all on the graphic side. The one thing I did learn was that I can
easily
turn the power
down on this one
and still have plenty of oomph to do the job. Heavier pellets will also
work, no problem
- but not having
any on hand means I'll turn the power down.
I also finished
polishing
all of the metal work in preparation for the anodizing, which will have
to
wait a while till
I can get through some of the work I already have backed up in that
department.
Besides, I think
it looks kind of pretty in this state... Would look killer in a
gray
laminate, for sure!
At just over 35"
total length the gun handles quite well, and balances nicely in off
hand
situations.
Reminds me a bunch
of shooting a TX200 in a thumbhole stock. Seems to like a fill pressure
of somewhere around
2750 psi, and seems to work well down to even 1100 psi. More shot
testing will follow,
with the goal to find a .5" drop at 50 yards. The way I shoot, I figure
a half
inch at 50 means
time to refill.
At a total
length of 37", with a 2 stage adjustable trigger, adjustable cheek
piece,
and adjustable pad
assembly, this gun
turned out to be a gem to shoot. Since the last time I posted info
here,
I reworked the
valve a tad, and
switched to a longer, but lighter hammer spring. The spring has a bit
more
pre load
than the first set
up I used. The result is a butter smooth cocking effort and enough
power
to easily
get a 14.3 premier
on target at 50 yards and beyond. I'm filling to a max pressure
of
2500psi, and doing
easily 30 shots
before refilling. I'll have more detailed info in a few more days...
A closer look at
the loading area, cocking bolt, and pellet probe. I had this gun apart
a few days
ago to anodize all
the pieces. When I put it back together, I slipped the scope back on
the
rail,
snugged it back
into position, and loaded a .22 Premier into the pipe. I stepped out of
the shop and
picked a dandy lion
growing atop a mound that sits just in front of a bank at @45 yards from
my shop door. I
figured by using the dandy lion as an aim point, I would at least be
able
to see
the pellet strike
the bank behind it to make any adjustments needed. The first shot took
the head
of the dandy lion
right off... That'll work for me.
A note about the
pieces I am building. I'm a real world shooter. I like to be able to
hit
what I aim at. I am
not real hung up
on numbers, as I don't even own a chronograph. To learn what a gun will
do, I shoot. If
the gun is not
working
up to my standards, I work on it till it is. They are what they are.
They
aren't miracles
of science, or the
next evolution in the food chain in air gunning. They are hand made
from
scratch.
I purchase metal,
springs, screws and wood, that is it. Virtually every other piece
incorporated
in both the
guns and the stocks
is made by hand, and finished in house.
Most of the
shooting
I do is in the ranges of 30, 50 and 75 yards. For any gun to make it up
for
sale it has to
perform
up to my standards at these distances. In most cases that means that
in the real world,
a chipmunk or squirrel doesn't stand a chance at those distances. If
you
call
me and tell me that
you want to hunt a moose, I will more than likely advise you to pass on
buying.
If you give me some
real world desires about shooting, I will do my best to provide what
you
are looking for.
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